Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Fresh Brewed Sweet Tea in 20 Minutes

*This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase by clicking on them, I made a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support!
We love fresh brewed sweet tea! You can always find a pitcher or two in our fridge. Before moving in with Todd, I think I made tea on the stove maybe once...Hehe. It was always easier for me to just buy some tea already made. After moving in, I had to learn how to make it myself, AND - it is soooooo easy and quick! And I will show you how too!

Yields: 1 Pitcher - 2 Quarts

Time: 20 Minutes

Ingredients:
     - 2 3/4 Cups of Water
     - 1 1/4 Cups of Sugar
     - 3 Teabags - We use Lipton's Brand. The 100 bag box lasts nearly forever!

You'll Also Need:
     - Small Saucepan
     - 2 Quart Pitcher
     - Spatula for Mixing

Adsense:





Recipe:

Step 1: Fill saucepan with the water - I usually just eyeball half of the pan.
Step 2: I have a dial on my stove that goes up to 9. I put mine on 6. Then, drop of in the tea bags - I strategically place the tabs of the strings so their aren't paying on the hot ring, so I can grab them later when I take the tea off the stove.
Step 3: Bring the water to a light boil - this takes about 15-17 minutes.
Step 4: Meanwhile, prepare the pitcher by dumping in the sugar. I find the sugar dissolves best when the hot tea is poured over.
Step 5: Turn off the stove. Holding the tabs of the bags in one hand, pour tea into the pitcher over the sugar. Fill the pitcher about halfway with cold water holding the tea bags under the stream to cool, squeeze bags, place under stream again and squeeze once more. Discard tea bags.
Step 6: Mix sugar and tea well.
Step 7: Finish filling the pitcher. Serve warm, over ice or place in fridge for a bit.
Please DO NOT claim this recipe as your own nor should you sell my recipe, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my recipe anywhere, link to it instead.

If you love to bake/cook (and/or craft) too, I would love to see your photos and get your recommendations! Join the EyeLoveKnots Crafting Community to share your creations, and see what other's are up to!

Don't miss out on new crochet patterns, reviews, jewelry tutorials and more! Subscribe to EyeLoveKnots by using the box on the right side toolbar, or follow me via Bloglovin!

Saturday, September 23, 2017

Acorn Square Pixel Art - Free Crochet Pattern

It's here! The Acorn Square Pixel Art I've been sharing on social media for the last week and a half!

A few weeks ago, I got an idea that I wanted to work an Acorn Square this fall, and so I decided I would make some two round solid granny squares, use my favorite Pull Loop Through method to join my squares, and create a fall inspired pixel art piece. 

Upon completing my square, I thought about what I would create with it. It could be used as a doily, as a piece of wall art if attached to a dowel or canvas, as a blouse if worked as the front piece, an afghan square to a larger blanket, the front piece to a tote bag, a rug if worked with four strands of worsted weight yarn... So many possibilities, and so many more than mentioned. If you would like to see any of these, please drop me a line below!

What will I do with this square? You will just have to wait and see!

Materials:
     - 99 grams of Lightweight #3 Yarn (or 34 grams in each of the three colors) - I used Baby Bee's Sweet Delight Yarn in Naked [Cream], Teddy [Light Brown] and Chocolate [Dark Brown]
     - G6/4mm Crochet Hook
     - #18 Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends

Material Notes:
     I usually work in yards, but for this project, I used yarn that was already in my stash. To get the grams used, I weighted my yarn and finished project. It doesn't take much to make this acorn square - you might even have the small amounts of yarn in your stash too!

Yarn Alternative: Anne Geddes Baby. Any weight yarn will also work for this project with respective crochet hook. Different weights will produce different sized squares.

Time Spent:
     This square took me about 7 hours to complete - I worked about a row a day, including the weaving for that row.

Measurements:
     With border, the acorn square measures 16".

Gauge:
     First square measures 2". 
*Gauge for this project isn’t essential, as long as your squares are consistent in size. Keep in mind, smaller or larger squares will produce smaller or larger projects.

Abbreviations:
     - DC - Double Crochet
     - SC - Single Crochet
     - sc2tog - Single Crochet Two Stitches Together (decrease)
     - PLT - Pull Loop Through (Join)
       To PLT: After DC, pull up a loop, insert hook from front through the corresponding stitch on MB and pull loop through

Pattern Notes:
The beginning chain 5 counts as a double crochet plus a chain 3, and the beginning chain 2 counts as the first double crochet.


Join to the second chain of the beginning chain, not the first stitch, except in the border - here you'll join to the first single crochet.


You may work this art piece with a variety of joining methods, but I joined mine using the Pull Loop Through Method, and this pattern will be written as such. If you choose to work all the squares first, and then sew them together, you will need: 14 in Teddy, 2 in half Naked and half Teddy, 4 in Chocolate, 2 in half Naked and half Chocolate split diagonally, 2 in half Naked and half Chocolate split on the side, and 40 in Naked.


In the instructions, I refer to MA, MB and MD. These are the motifs. MA is the current motif you are working on. MB is the first one you join to, MC is skipped and MD is the second one you join to, which is diagonal from MB. I only refer to these motifs in the one and two join instructions.

I also mention MC in the bi-colored square instructions. Here, this refers to Main Color.

I highly recommend weaving in your ends as you complete each row, otherwise, at the end you could be left with so many ends, this square may end up in your WIPs bin, instead of being completed.

Pattern:


Work 1 complete 3” Solid Granny Square in Ivory.
    Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)


R2: Chain 2. Work (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 3x, DC into the next 2 DCs and Join. (28 DC)


Fasten Off, and Sew in Ends.


*This square will be the bottom right square of the piece.


Working with the Join-As-You-Go PLT Method, you will have squares that require one join, and squares that require two joins - these are described below.      


To Work Square with 1 Join:
    Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)


R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1]; 2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 2x, DC into the last 2 DCs and Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)


Fasten Off, and Sew in Ends.

To Work Square with 2 Joins:
    Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)


R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1];
[(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1];
2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space], DC into the last 2 DCs and Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)

Fasten Off, and Sew in Ends.
Following this chart, continue working solid granny squares and joining them as outlined above. I began with Row 1, and my first completed square being the square closest to the “R1”. The purple line shows that the second square worked (to the left of the 1st) only requires 1 join, as does the 3rd and so on in Row 1. Beginning in Row 2, you will start working with 2 joins. The first square worked of Row 2 (furthest right square) only requires 1 join to the 1st square of Row 1, but each square after requires 2 joins.
I worked from the furthest right square of each row all the way to the end of the row, and weaved in my ends at the end of each row.
Bi-colored squares are highlighted in the image. #11 and #14 are half Naked and half Teddy, #42 and #47 are half Naked and half Chocolate split diagonally, and #52 and #53 are half Naked and half Chocolate as well but split horizontally. Using the instructions below, work in your bi-colored squares. Take note that Round 1 of each of these is the same as the 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square listed below, but Round 2 varies as they are worked to best suit working in the manner as I have outlined. If you are working them differently, you will need to adjust as best for you.
*I am including the pattern for the single bi-colored solid granny square. If you are working individual squares and using a different joining method, like a Single Crochet Join, then you will need to follow the single instructions to make your square. A photo tutorial can be found on my EyeLoveKnots blog, 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square the EyeLoveKnots Way. Replace “MC” with the one you will be using.
3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square (See Note Above):
    With MC, Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2, 2 DC into the ring, chain 3, 3 DC into the ring, pull Naked through, [holding Naked over index finger and MC between middle finger and thumb, insert hook under MC to pull up a loop on hook, pull up Naked over hook and complete chain. Move the MC strand behind the Naked strand] 2x, yarn over, insert hook into the ring, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, hold strands the same as before and complete the DC. Move the MC strand to the back, work 2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC over the MC tail, yarn over, insert hook into the ring, yarn over, pull through, hold the strands the same as before, pull over the MC, yarn over and complete the 1st half of the DC, move the MC strand to the back and repeat to complete the 2nd half of the DC, but don’t move the MC strand. Drop Naked, pull through MC to complete 1 chain, chain 2. Join, and fasten off both strands.
R2: With MC, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished and complete DC, DC into the same chain space and the next 3 stitches, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 stitches, 2 DC into the next chain space, pull Naked through and fasten off MC. Chain 2, 2 DC into the same chain space, DC into the next 3 stitches, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 stitches, 2 DC into the 1st chain space. Join. Fasten Off.
#11:
   Follow Round 1 Instructions from 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square above.

R2: In Naked, Attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the chain space of #2, chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the 2nd chain space to the left of the one just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #2), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #2)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #2)] 2x, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #10, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #10)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #10)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #10)] 2x. Chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #10. Pull Teddy through and fasten off Naked.
Chain 1. 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the chain space of #2.

#14:
   Follow Round 1 Instructions from 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square above.

R2: With Naked, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the 2nd chain space to the left of the chain space just finished on MA and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1.
From behind SC into the chain space of #6, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #6)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #6)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #6)] 2x.
Insert hook into the chain space of #13. Pull Teddy through, and complete the SC, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #13)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #13)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #13)] 2x, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #13, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2.

#42:
   Follow Round 1 Instructions from 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square above.

R2: With Chocolate, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1.
From behind AND with working yarn under the work instead of over as normal to trap underneath, SC into the chain space of #34, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #34)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #34)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #34)] 2x.
Insert hook into the chain space of #41. Pull Naked through, and complete the SC, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #41)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #41)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #41) 2x, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #41, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2.

#47:
   Follow Round 1 Instructions from 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square above.

R2: In Chocolate, Attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the chain space of #39, chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #39), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #39)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #39)] 2x, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #46, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #46)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #46)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #46)] 2x. Pull Naked through, and fasten off Chocolate.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #46, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the chain space of #39.
#52 - R2 of this square begins in a different spot than usual. In this square, you will begin it with a chain 2 that counts as the last double crochet of the corner. You will be ending with a brown double crochet just to the right of the beginning chain 2, so begin your PLT Method in the corresponding stitch:
   In Naked, Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Loosely slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the previous chain space just worked. Chain 2. Pull up a loop, insert hook from front through corresponding stitch of #44 and pull loop through, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #44)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #44)] 2x, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #51, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #51)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #51) 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #51)] 2x, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #51, chain 1, 2 DC into the same chain space of MA, DC into each of the next 3 DC of MA, DC into the next chain space of MA, pull Chocolate through and fasten off Naked.
DC into the same chain space of MA, chain 3, 2 DC into the same chain space of MA, DC into each of the 3 DC of MA, 2 DC into the next chain space of MA, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the next chain space of #44, chain 1, DC into the same chain space of MA, PLT (Into #44) - which counts as final join. Pull finished end to the wrong side to weave in.

#53 - R2 of this square begins diagonally across from the usual spot. Keep in the mind the corner will end in Chocolate as 2 double crochet into the chain space, work from behind, then finish with a double crochet into the same chain space and join. The Chocolate part of this square will line up with the Chocolate part of #52 to complete the Stem:
   In Naked, Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Loosely slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the previous chain space just worked. Chain 2. DC into each of the next 3 DC of MA, 2 DC into the next chain space of MA, chain 3, 2 DC into the same chain space of MA, DC into each of the next 3 DC of MA, 2 DC into the next chain space of MA, chain 1.
From behind, SC into the chain space of #45, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #45)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #45)] 3x, DC into the next chain space of MA, pull up a loop, insert hook from front through corresponding stitch of #45, pull Chocolate through, and fasten off Naked.

DC into the same chain space of MA, pull up a loop, insert hook from front through corresponding stitch of #45, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #52, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #52)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #52)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #52)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the next chain space of #52, chain 1, DC into the same chain space of MA. Join.
Border:
    With Naked, join yarn to top right corner. Chain 1. [SC in chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 6x, SC into the same chain space just worked and the next 7 stitches] 4x. Join with Teddy, and fasten off Naked. (315 SC)
R2: With Teddy, Chain 1. SC into the 1st SC and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 78 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 77 SCs. Join with Chocolate, and fasten off Teddy. (324 SC)
R3: With Chocolate, Chain 1. SC into the 1st 2 SCs and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 80 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 78 SCs. Join, and fasten off. (332 SC)
Sew in Final Ends.
Here's the back of my square.
Please feel free to make and sell your own Acorn Square project using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

*If you would like a PDF version of this post, you may get one through my EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy Shop for a small fee. This fee is to compensate for the view/s lost once you no longer need to return to the blog for the information, as you will have your own copy. Plus! It helps fund supplies for new projects to share with you!
Shop EyeLoveKnots Etsy - Acorn Square Pixel Art
or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy - Acorn Square Pixel Art.

With so many size, yarn type and color options, I would love to see them! Join the EyeLoveKnots Crafting Community to share your creations, and see what other's are up to! 

Share your version of this project on Ravelry - Acorn Pixel Art. Check out the EyeLoveKnots Ravelry page to keep track of all your EyeLoveKnots favorites in your que, and share your WIPS and finished projects!

Don't miss out on new crochet patterns, reviews, jewelry tutorials and more! Subscribe to EyeLoveKnots by using the box on the right side toolbar, or follow me via Bloglovin! You can also find me sharing on the EyeLoveKnots Facebook page, and @EyeLoveKnots on Twitter!


Don't Crochet but Interested in Purchasing a Project Made of an Acorn Square?
     Visit the EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop to see what I have available! Use the search box to type in what you have in mind, or feel free to send me a message with your custom request. I am happy to make in any custom size and/or color. View color options here: Sweet Delight, Anne Geddes Baby.

Adsense:



Saturday, September 9, 2017

1-2-3 Beautiful Scarf - Crochet Pattern Review - Crochet is the Way

Remember this 1-2-3 Beautiful Scarf from the July Granny-Spiration Challenge? Jenny was kind enough to allow us a chance to win a copy of the crochet pattern, and I was given the opportunity to review the pattern! Something I enjoy very much.

And I have a surprise for you! Jenny is offering EyeLoveKnots readers a chance to buy this PDF at 50% OFF! The promotion ends October 9th, so plenty of time to get your copy! Just use the code "review" at checkout, or go through my special link to Jenny's Ravelry page to automatically generate the code in the page.

Are you a Raveler? Make sure to favorite and share your version of this 1-2-3 Beautiful Scarf! 

Materials:
     - Worsted Weight Yarn - I used less than one skein of Yarn Bee's Soft & Sleek Yarn in the Burgundy colorway
     - N15/10mm Crochet Hook
     - #18 Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
     - 1-2-3 Beautiful Scarf, Paid Crochet Pattern from Crochet is the Way

Material Notes:
     In the original design, Jenny used Caron's Simply Soft.

Yardage required varies greatly depending on the desired length. With one skein, you can get quite a bit accomplished.

Yarn Review: This was my first time using Yarn Bee's Soft & Sleek Yarn. I found it on the end shelf of the yarn aisle. The beautiful colors and true soft and sleek look of the yarn pulled me in. I grabbed a skein, and like many others, rubbed it on my cheek. That's all it took! I put it in my basket, and knew it'd be perfect for this 1-2-3 Beautiful Scarf. It is a nice, solid acrylic yarn strand, and so soft! I didn't have any issues with splitting or fuzzy halo while working my scarf, and with the "low pill fiber" as stated on the label, this should be a great yarn to use in hats, scarfs, sweaters, blankets and other projects that will see a lot of wear, and machine washing and drying. Can't wait to try this yarn on some other projects!

Time Spent:
     I completed my scarf in about an hour, and 45 minutes.

Measurements:
     3.25" Wide at Widest Point (2.5" Wide at Smallest Point) by 73" in Length

Adsense:






Pattern Notes:
     I found it a tad bit difficult to predict how large my scarf would be. It would take quite a bit of guess and check, though, no matter the length, the scarf is absolutely beautiful.

When I went to my first odd row, and read, "top-left bar", I was a little confused at first. My tip is to think of it as "back of the 1st chain", and then with the half double crochet that follows, you will be finishing it from the position you are in.

Also, make sure to work the even cluster stitch into a space, and not a previous stitch.

I worked 37 rows, and was measuring 52" in length, which grew to 73" by the end. I found the difference from Round 1, and 2 was 2", so the greatest variance was from the beginning rows.

While working the first round, I found the first end was cupping so I worked (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) here, and worked (4 dc, ch 1) at the end before joining. In round two, I worked my ends the same way.
I worked a similar scarf before that I scrapped because although a gorgeous, fun and unique pattern, the shell pattern does not lay flat when worn. If pressed, the fabric lays flat - as seen in the photo on the right, so it isn't a matter of increasing in shells, but naturally hanging, the sides cup forward - as seen in either photo. I suppose the bigger question is, how long with the pressed fabric last, that I do not know. 
I feel, if you are okay with the ruffle look, then it's great, but if you really want the shells to lay flat, you would have to sewing a lining onto the back. Alternatively, you can wear it pulled through, as seen above, and it would hold a lot better, and be warmer around your neck like wear a cowl. 

I will leave you with these beautiful shells, and the awesome texture. I think the center bobble created by the beginning rows, and one side of the shells could make a neat ruffle border for a baby girls blanket. You would need to work the beginning rows into the edge of a finished blanket, and then work the shells around. If anyone tries this, please share your work! 

And remember! Jenny is offering EyeLoveKnots readers a chance to buy this PDF at 50% OFF! The promotion ends October 9th, so plenty of time to get your copy! Just use the code "review" at checkout, or go through my special link to Jenny's Ravelry page to automatically generate the code in the page.

Join the EyeLoveKnots Crafting Community to share your creations, and see what other's are up to! 

Don't miss out on new crochet patterns, reviews, jewelry tutorials and more! Subscribe to EyeLoveKnots by using the box on the right side toolbar, or follow me via Bloglovin! You can also find me sharing on the EyeLoveKnots Facebook page, and @EyeLoveKnots on Twitter!

Friday, September 1, 2017

Granny's Stashbusting Tissue Box Cover - Free Crochet Pattern

Yay! This is the ninth post of the year for the 2017 GrannySpiration Challenge! I am so excited to see what everyone has been working on, especially you! At the end of this post, you will find the information for this month's giveaway, and link up.

This month, I am sharing a fun tissue box cover. I wanted to share this one last month, but I couldn't get around to working it up in time to share, so I saved it for this month. This is a great project to work up as a teacher gift, or to decorate your desk if you work in an office, or as I have used it, in my bathroom (even though it doesn't match my current color scheme).
From Your Hosts: Granny Square Tank & Happily Hooked Magazine Issue #40 from EyeLoveKnots (that's me!), Open Center Afghan (Crochet Inspiration with Links) from Rhelena, Another Upcycled Shopping Bag (Crochet Inspiration) from Mariam's Creations, Cross Burst Granny (Free Crochet Pattern) from Crochet is the Way, Teddybear Blanket (Crochet Inspiration) from Hakelfieber Austria and Granny Square Summer Top (Crochet Inspiration) from Atelier Marie-Lucienne.
Please make sure to stop by our other co-host and see what they've been working on too. In the image above, you'll find their projects (and mine) from last month's challenge.

Marjan from Atelier Marie-Lucienne
Sandra from Hakelfieber Austria (in German)
Jenny from Crochet is the Way
Rhelena from Crochet n Crafts
Mariam from Mariam's Creations: Recycle and Create

Materials:
     - Scraps of Lightweight #3 Yarn - I used Baby Bee's Sweet Delight in Toy Elephant [Gray], Naked [Cream], Baby Sage and Chocolate [Brown]
     - G6/4mm Crochet Hook
     - #18 Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends

Material Notes:
     Yarn Alternatives: Anne Geddes Baby Yarn, I Love This Sport Weight Yarn

*I suggest going up to a 4.5mm crochet hook - see Pattern Notes below.

Time Spent:
     I worked my cover over two days, for a total of about 3 hours, 45 minutes.

Measurements:
     Fits a Kleenex box that measures 4.25" Wide by 5.13" Tall on one pair of sides, 4.38" Wide by 5" Tall on the other pair of sides and 17.25" in circumference with a 4.38" wide top.

Gauge:
     1st Square = 1.38" (or 1 3/8")

Abbreviations:
     SC - Single Crochet
     HDC - Half Double Crochet
     DC - Double Crochet

Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain counts towards final stitch count, except in half double crochet rounds.

Normally, I work the final chain as a chain 2 to keep a more even square with future rounds. Being that this is only worked in one round, the chain 3 is intentional.

Join to the first stitch, not the beginning chain.

The squares are joined using the Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) Method, and are found at the points following "from behind" throughout the pattern. The single crochet takes the place of the center chain in the chain three corner of the square.

To custom make a tissue box cover, work a strip of granny squares about two and a half to three inches smaller than desired circumference. 
After completing my cover, I think I'd work another in the same manner, but one hook size up. The yarn stretched just fine to cover my box, but I think it would cover easier with less stressed joins if done with one hook size larger.
This pattern has 70 ends...::sighs::...A thing that could make this a long time resident in a WIPs bin. I highly suggest weaving in ends as you go - I did so at the end of each round.

As far as color goes, I used four. In the following rounds, I shifted my colors over by one square so they would be in a diagonal. This would look great in one solid color, two colors, three colors, six colors or even 12 colors!

Adsense:





Pattern:
Round 1, 1st Square:
Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 3, (3 DC into the ring, chain 3) 3x. Join, and Fasten Off. (12 DC)

Round 1, 2nd - 11th Squares:
Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain 3 space of the previous square. Chain 1, 3 DC into the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the next corner of the previous square, chain 1. (3 DC into the ring, chain 3) 2x. Join, and Fasten Off.

Round 1, 12th Square - Here you'll join to the 1st square:
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, (chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain 3 space of the previous square, chain 1, 3 DC into the current square) 3x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain 3 space of the previous square, chain 1. Join, and Fasten Off.

You will now have a stripe that's joined. Each of the next rounds will be worked in the same manner with the 1st square being worked into any right corner of any square from the previous round, and working to the left around.
Rounds 2 - 4, Square 1: 
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous row, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the next join of the previous row, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring, (chain 3, 3 DC into the ring) 2x. Join, and Fasten off.

Rounds 2 - 4, Squares 2 - 11:
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the bottom corner of the previous square, (chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous row) 2x, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 3. Join, and Fasten Off.

Rounds 2 - 4, Square 12:
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the bottom corner of the previous square, (chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous row) 2x, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the corner of the 1st square from this round, chain 1. Join, and Fasten Off.
Before beginning the top, I rotated the piece to work along the top edge of Round 1. Corners will be formed in the top, and four less squares will be worked.
 Top, Square 1:
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the bottom corner of the previous row, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the next join of the previous row, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring, chain 3, 3 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous rows previous square to form a corner, chain 1. Join, and Fasten Off.

Top, Square 2:
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain 3 space of the previous square, (chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of previous row) 2x, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 3. Join, and Fasten Off.

Top, Square 3:
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain 3 space of the previous square, (chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous row) 3x, chain 1. Join, and Fasten Off.

Top, Square 4: 
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous 2 squares from this top round, (chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of previous row) 2x, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 3. Join, and Fasten Off.

Top, Square 5 - 7: 
     Repeat Squares 3 - 4, ending on a Square 3.

Top, Square 8: 
     Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC into the ring, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous 2 squares from this top round, (chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the previous row) 2x, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring of the current square, chain 1. From behind, SC into the join of the 1st and 2nd squares, chain 1. Join, and Fasten Off.
Bottom Border - Make sure not to skip beginning chain 2 as a stitch in Round 1 of border:
     Attach yarn in any stitch, and chain 1. HDC into the 1st stitch, and in each DC, chain 1 space, and join around. Join. (72 HDC)

Round 2: Chain 1. HDC into the 2nd HDC, and each HDC around, making sure to end last stitch into the 1st stitch on the right side of the beginning chain 1. Join, and Fasten Off. (72 HDC)
Please feel free to make and sell your own Granny's Stashbusting Tissue Box Cover using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.


With so many size, yarn type and color options, I would love to see them! Join the EyeLoveKnots Crafting Community to share your creations, and see what other's are up to! 

Share your version of Granny's Stashbusting Tissue Box Cover on Ravelry. Check out the EyeLoveKnots Ravelry page to keep track of all your EyeLoveKnots favorites in your que, and share your WIPS and finished projects!

Don't miss out on new crochet patterns, reviews, jewelry tutorials and more! Subscribe to EyeLoveKnots by using the box on the right side toolbar, or follow me via Bloglovin! You can also find me sharing on the EyeLoveKnots Facebook page, and @EyeLoveKnots on Twitter!

Linked Up To...


This Month's Giveaway is sponsored by myself, Alexandra of EyeLoveKnots! One winner will receive three granny square crochet patterns via Ravelry. Patterns include: Crochet Granny Square Skirt by Doris Chan, Skysail Top by Elena Fedotova, and Edna Valley Cardigan by Lena Skvagerson for Annie's.

a Rafflecopter giveaway


Must be 18 or older to enter. Open to all countries. Void where prohibited. Winner has 48 hours to respond to email notification, or another winner will be chosen. Alexandra of EyeLoveKnots is responsible for prize fulfillment.
The three most viewed projects from last month's challenge can be found in the image above. From left to right, top to bottom: Little Dots, Big Dots Infinity Scarf - Free Crochet Pattern from The Underground Crafter, Summer Shoulder Bag - Free Crochet Pattern from Anabelia's Handmade, and Granny Hexagon Crystal - Crochet Inspiration (with link to Paid Pattern) from Elealinda-Design.


Now, Share Your Granny-Spiration Project With Us!

New Granny-Spiration Projects will be shared from your hosts the first Saturday of each month. Post times will vary. You will be able to link up from 12:00am EST on the first Saturday of the month, through midnight EST on the second Thursday from the start date - specific dates are on top of the Rafflecopter form - giving you almost two weeks to link up and enter the giveaway!

Please share projects that are family friendly, and GRANNY INSPIRED through use of regular granny square or solid granny square, granny stitch pattern or other afghan square in the form of a free pattern, pattern review, or inspiration piece. Not limited to crochet or knit.

Please make sure to link to your post, and not your home page. 

*If you don't have a blog, you can still share with us by creating a Free Flickr Account - powered by Yahoo. Add your projects there, and then come back here with the link for the project.


*Link ups cannot be to Etsy listings or Ravelry pages where patterns are sold. You can link to blog posts, Flickr or Facebook pages, Pins, etc that are directed towards it, but can't directly link to it. 

To be clearer though, Raverly pages of finished projects are okay to share. Sorry for the inconvenience! That's per InLinkz guidelines. Thanks!

Features may be chosen at the discretion of each host. By linking up, you give us permission to feature your item.